Here the focusing accuracy wide open matters. I used to shoot hockey with a F2.8 TLR and asa 1250 Royal-x 120 film. Also quickly taken shots will have better focus than a frame that has sat in the camera for days/week. decades old film will tend to buckle/buldge more and cause focusing errors. My TLR was 500 bucks the discounts about roughly 400 used. I paid more thatn the "KEH" or "Cambridge" or "Olden" or "Wall Street" mail order price because I found a TLR that focused perfectly by my strict lens test done on the fly. Finder lens: Zeiss or Schneider Heidosmat 2.8/80mm, Bayonet 3. Taking Lens: Carl Zeiss Oberkochen Planar 2.8/80mm, and Schneider Xenotar 2.8/80mm, filter both Bayonet 3. Then I raced home developed and printed raced back and bought the camera. Produced between 1956-59 with quantity 44.000 units. I shot a roll wide open indoors at several different distances. Rolleiflex 2.8 F TLR Twin Lens Reflex Camera Planar 80mm f/2.8 with Leather Case. I bought my Rolleiflex E3 F2.8 Xenotar at Franks camera 2+ decades used. These missaligned TLR's cause the user to dog the lens (Xenotar or Planar ). German made S元5s are much more desirable than the later Singapore ones both for their better build quality and rarity, and to have a working copy is not easy to find. This causes the user to still get great/fantasticly sharp images at F11 but poor results at F4 of F2.8. A common kit lens for the S元5 was the 7-element Zeiss Planar 50/1.8 lens which was a very capable lens. Many TLR's are not in alignment because of a botched repair job. (3) then the top viewing lens is adjust to be sharp at infinity. (2)The the main lens must focus correctly at infinity when the scale reads infinity. There are 4 screws that translate the front plate forward these must be set/adjusted. (1)The lens board must be parallel to the film plane. The alignment of a TLR must be perfect to get great wide open sharpness. The later 75mm F3.5 TLR Rolleiflex Planar is 6 elements.